Thursday, April 7, 2011

From Grannies to Gaultier

I've been rooting for team "granny style" for quite some time now. I have an affinity for peter pan collars paired with flower-embroidered cardigans, what can I say? Sadly I was beginning to feel that no one would ever truly understand my old lady love; with Spring's constant stream of neon and futuristic feel, I began to doubt my passion for mothball scented garments would ever see the light of the runway. 

But then Jean Paul Gaultier's Fall 2011 collection came along. It was love at first sight. 



Models balanced sky-high silvery beehive wigs on their way down the catwalk, weighed down by chunky clip on earrings and pearl necklaces. Many of the prints, such as the yellow silk number pictured below, were made up of tiny cameos, and sparkles snuck their way into a number of the black pieces. Fur, dainty leather gloves, and a designer grocery cart or two completed the look, adding a truly authentic "I raided my grandma's closet today" feel.


 It was wonderfully refreshing, not only because I love the style of those who reside in rocking chairs so much, but because had my Great Grandmother been alive, she would've fought me for one of these pieces. If Jean Paul Gaultier's Fall 2011 garments have the ability to potentially bridge an almost 80 year style gap between then and now, that's something I can't help but admire; it's true timelessness. 





I can't wait to go grey!
But lets keep that just between Shoe and I.

Photos Via Style.com

Rodarte on the Runway

I awoke with start this morning. Giddy, like a kid at Christmas (or rather, myself every year at Christmas) I had only one thing on my mind: RODARTE FALL 2011!!!



As usual, Kate and Laura didn't disappoint.



Clearly influenced by the American Plains, the Fall 2011 collection is more accessible than the work shown in past seasons.  Despite the slightly more commercial nature of the looks however, knitting and quilting details were reportedly all done by hand, reaffirming my belief that the Mulleavy sisters are truly dedicated to the art of fashion. Muted beiges, creams and pastels were complimented by the model's tousled long hair and minimal makeup, creating a dreamy display of prairie-chic.  Overall, This collection induced an overwhelming desire to get lost in a wheat field in the middle of nowhere, never to be seen or heard from again.


My favorite elements (if I must choose) were the full apron skirts, chunky cropped knits and of course, the high collars; my latest obsession is dainty collars and Rodarte crafted some near-perfect ones!

Keep making beautiful things Mulleavy sisters, and I shall continue to swoon, sigh, and admire.

XOXX
Between Shoe and I

Photos via Style.com

The Garden of Erdem

Although I was in awe of many of the collections shown this Spring, none of them encapsulated the season quite like Erdem.




Held in a garden square in central London, the photos from the show ooze Spring perfection.

Ballet was huge source of inspiration for the designer, Erdem Moralioglu, who spent the past summer surrounded by a collection of ballet costumes at the Victoria & Albert Museum.  One look at his airy, floral garments, and I found myself holding back a series of shameful attempts at pirouettes and arabesques.



 Amongst all the white, sheer, and lace, brilliant pops of geometric patterns and bright reds added a colorful edge to the subdued looks.  The ballet shoe-inspired footwear by Nicholas Kirkwood was the perfect finishing touch to the dainty looks, complete with lace and patterned ribbon winding up the model's pale legs.


I want nothing more than to snatch one of these delightful dresses out of my computer screen and pack a wicker-basket full of vegan sandwiches for a picnic on a gingham blanket in some lush meadow...

I'm getting a little carried away.

Please don't remind me it's January and I live in Toronto?

-Between Shoe and I

Photos from Style.com

WORN: A Dress is Not a Yes — SlutWalking in Toronto



Sluts from all walks of life took over College Street in Toronto last Sunday, chanting one resounding line: However we dress, wherever we go, yes means yes and no means no.

The protest march was sparked when when local media caught wind of a statement made by a representative of the police force this January during a campus safety information session at York University. According to the school paper, the officer told female students they should avoid dressing like "sluts" to prevent becoming victims of assault.

City-wide, women and their allies were outraged. Not only was the officer's comment an attack on rape victims, it was an attack on women's right to wear whatever they want. The idea that women who dress provocatively are "asking for it" is everywhere in pop culture, from crime shows to video games. Sonya Barnett, a SlutWalk co-founder, was already tired of the primitive stereotypes surrounding women and their appearances in the media. For her, the police officer's sexist statement was a call to action.

"Women, and any gender identification, have the right to wear what pleases them, not the obligation to wear what pleases another. It's important to make that distinction," said Barnette.

Barnett and several others immediately began organizing a peaceful protest. Volunteers were summoned, a website was launched, T-shirts and buttons were made. By the time April arrived, over 3000 people had clicked 'attending' on the facebook page. The invitation was compelling:

"SlutWalk Toronto is asking you to COME AS YOU ARE. If you want to wear fishnets, great. If you want to wear parkas, that's just as great. Any gender-identification, any age. Singles, couples, parents, sisters, brothers, children, friends. No matter how you visually identify, come walk with us. And we're welcoming ALL those who feel that prevailing attitudes as to why sexual assault happens need to change: WHETHER YOU'RE A SLUT OR AN ALLY, come walk, roll, holler or stomp with us."



Freedom of dress was one of the main reasons behind the protest. The statement that women can avoid assault by dressing conservatively not only suggests men have no control over themselves, but challenges women's rights to choose whatever clothing they see fit. It removes the power women have been given to express themselves, creating propaganda against "slutty" clothing and perpetuating fear. And what is "dressing like a slut" anyway, officer? Barnett has a few ideas.

"Over the last century, people have had 'slut' tossed at them based on their appearance, but the physical manifestation changes conveniently over time. 'Slutty' clothing 80 years ago was wildly different, and by today's standards, incredibly conservative. Revealing cleavage in some societies is considered slutty, while revealing your ankles in another is just as slutty. It's all subjective. It's a constructed concept that sex and appearance are not exclusive. Decisions are made by some to judge others. The thought never crosses their minds that what one may find sexy or slutty, another can find to be the opposite. It's an easy out for those that can't conceive the notion that sex and appearance can, in fact, be exclusive," she said.

At 1:30p.m. on Sunday, April 3rd, an estimated crowd of 3000 gathered outside the Ontario legislative building at Queen's Park. The throng contained steam punks, fathers, queer folk, slutty dogs, roller-derby girls, grandmothers, and everyone in between. Regardless of what they wore, attendees had one thing in common; they were all ready to challenge the right to wear what they want. Signs littered the crowd, sending out messages of sadness, frustration, and hope; more than one told of personal rape experiences.





Barnett explained the meaning of the name "SlutWalk" to the excited crowd, urging women to reclaim the word "slut" and take away any negative connotation it has held in the past to help put an end to "slut shaming". Barnette also reinforced the point that being a slut isn't a form of dress, but an empowering attitude that anyone can employ at any time, regardless of appearance.

"Whether you're wearing blue jeans, rollerblades, saris, tuxedos or tube tops, sexual assault is a crime of power!" Barnette roared through her megaphone.

With that, the thrall was off. Within seconds, College street was filled with people from sidewalk to sidewalk. The crowd appeared to stretch endlessly through the city.





For me, the experience was irreplaceable. Seeing so many people take time out of their sunny Sunday afternoons to rebel against sexism and dress stereotypes was both inspiring and needed. One sign I read instantly had me blinking back tears: "X-mas 1985, 14-years-old, bundled in layers. How did I deserve it?" The fact that authorities could even imply that victims could have avoided their attack by dressing differently not only shows assault survivors that their crime wasn't taken seriously, but perpetuates fear of reporting such crimes in the future. The idea that anyone invited sexual assault, whether sporting leather and fishnets or an Amish bonnet and prairie skirt, is absurd and unfair. NO ONE, no matter what their appearance, age or gender, wants to experience sexual assault, to any degree. EVER.

Here at WORN, we encourage both staff and readers to wear whatever they want, free of judgement. As a feminist fashion publication, we think the notion that the way a woman dresses could increase her chances of being raped is archaic, incorrect and insulting. There is no relationship between clothing and violent crimes like assault, and women shouldn't be made to feel that something they feel good wearing could be putting them in danger. Whether donning stilettos or steel toes, women should ALWAYS feel safe, and should NEVER have to question their clothing choices because of how they might be treated if they show too much skin. Women are NEVER asking for violence, and suggesting they are is just another form of oppression women and their allies need to fight.

"Oppression comes in all forms, and one of the easiest is based on attacking another's appearance," Barnette said. "We can counter that by choosing what to wear, when to wear it and where to wear it, proving that someone else's opinion has no bearing."

Alyssa Garrison

LG Fashion Week Round 4


GLASS Magazine

I'm very happy to announce I've been hired as the managing editor at a brand new independent Canadian publication. The first issue of GLASS magazine will be 120 pages, consisting mostly of creative beauty and fashion editorials, with a small chunk of written pieces at the front. The printer is at this very moment working away to get our 4000 copies ready for store shelves; GLASS will be available in just under a month and will be distributed nationally. A list of places to find it will be available soon: until then, keep your eyes peeled!

We had our launch party on the fourth night of fashion week at the Roosevelt Room: here's what I wore.





knit tank and pleated silk skirt: H+M, necklace: Nouvelle Nouvelle, shoes: Sam Edelman, 
turban: vintage, bag: Alexander Wang

Backstage at Sarah Stevenson

My last day at fashion week was spent chasing down models and steaming scarves for Sarah Stevenson, a lovely up-and-coming local designer. The collection was fantastic, and the experience was even better.

Using silks and heavy black wools, Sarah created a cohesive, wearable collection that had me swooning. The patterns, which Sarah designs herself, ranged from colourful acid-washes to gorgeous florals,  which were actually falling leaves when inspected closely. A collaboration with Eliza Kozurno, a gothic jewelry designer, added a sharper edge to the looks. The result was a collection fit for fairies.

Here's what I saw:



























 Oh yah, keep this between Shoe and I?